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  3. From Hysteria to Healing Félix Vallotton’s Bon Marché and the Ambiguous Nature of Colour in Fin-de-Siècle Culture
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From Hysteria to Healing Félix Vallotton’s Bon Marché and the Ambiguous Nature of Colour in Fin-de-Siècle Culture

  • Alessandra Ronetti(author)
Chapter of: Colour Matters: Exploring Chromatic Materialities in the Long Nineteenth Century (1798-1914)
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TitleFrom Hysteria to Healing
SubtitleFélix Vallotton’s Bon Marché and the Ambiguous Nature of Colour in Fin-de-Siècle Culture
ContributorAlessandra Ronetti(author)
Licensehttps://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/
CopyrightAlessandra Ronetti
PublisherOpen Book Publishers
Long abstract

This chapter examines the cultural ambivalence surrounding colour in the late nineteenth century, using Félix Vallotton’s Bon Marché (1898) as a case study. The rapid expansion of artificial dyes following the mid-nineteenth-century colour revolution transformed the visual environment of modern cities, introducing unprecedented chromatic intensity into fashion, consumer displays and the broader visual culture of the period. Drawing on approaches from art history and colour studies, the chapter situates Vallotton’s triptych within contemporary scientific and cultural debates on the sensory and psychological effects of colour. Emerging disciplines such as psychophysiology and experimental psychology associated intense chromatic stimuli with nervous disorders, hysteria and compulsive behaviours such as kleptomania. At the same time, chromotherapy promoted colour as a therapeutic agent capable of regulating emotional and bodily states. The chapter argues that colour is perceived in fin-de-siècle culture as a pharmakon: simultaneously a source of pathological excitation and a potential means of psychological healing.

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  • PDX
  • NHTB
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BISAC
  • ART015260
  • HIS054000
  • SCI034000
  • LIT004130
  • DES003000
  • SOC002010
Keywords
  • Colour studies
  • Material culture
  • History of science
  • Art history (long nineteenth century)
  • Pigments and dyes
  • Empire and identity
Contributors

Alessandra Ronetti

(author)
https://orcid.org/0009-0008-3107-2943

Alessandra Ronetti is an art historian and affiliated researcher at the University of Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne (HiCSA) and the University Sorbonne Nouvelle – Paris 3 (LIRA). She also serves as Scientific Advisor on Colour at the Institut Français de la Mode in Paris. She previously held positions as Postdoctoral Fellow and member of the ERC project Chromotope: The 19th-Century Chromatic Turn (Sorbonne Université, University of Oxford, Conservatoire national des arts et métiers, Paris), Temporary Lecturer at the University Sorbonne Nouvelle – Paris 3 and the University of Paris 1 Panthéon-Sorbonne, and Visiting Researcher at New York University. Her PhD dissertation, Chromomentalisme. Art et psychologie de la couleur en France, 1870–1914 (defended in 2019), is forthcoming in French with Les presses du réel in 2026.

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